When Pharrell Williams was first introduced as the creative director for Louis Vuitton on February 14, 2023, it caused a lot of speculation as to whether he would be the appropriate person to carry on the legacy from the late Virgil Abloh. However, as of January 16, 2024, I believe that there is no doubt that he was the ideal choice for the giant house of Louis Vuitton.
The Fall-Winter 2024 menswear collection has set Pharrell apart from other creative directors of the house. This collection is a beautiful homage to Western culture and the heritage of the Native Americans. Not only does it open and close with music by Native Voices of Resistance, but diversity is also showcased in the models he has chosen to represent this beautifully crafted collection. Williams has mentioned how some of the pieces were crafted in collaboration with Native American artisans.
The textures, which look as if they were taken directly from a Western film, such as worn leather, cow print, and denim all mixed in with classic patterns and silhouettes from the fashion house, create a beautiful harmony in each of the pieces. One aspect of the show that stood out for me was the changing seasons in the background of the show itself, reflecting on the journey that this show has taken from its starting point or even reflecting on Pharrell’s first year as the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton.
© Vogue Runway
Another aspect of the show that stood out were the beautifully crafted bags. Even though they feature classic silhouettes such as the Speedy or the Keepall, there are alterations that make them more relevant to the western theme. Some of my favorite bags had a twist in materials, such as a massive cow print and others where embroidered with patterns that reflect the beautiful work of the artisans. As expected from Williams, he modernized the classic LV pattern, giving it a new face and, in my opinion, making it more unique and relevant to today’s fashion scene. Something else that stood out to me were the western boots throughout the show with metal details. This is clearly not the last of them, as they will be carried forward into 2024.
© Vogue Runway
Now that Mr. Pharrell will complete a very successful first year in the house, we have a clear idea of his style and what he is bringing to the table. He has kept his designs true to his opulent and eclectic style rather than toning them down and following the quiet luxury trend. Personally, I very much enjoyed seeing the masterpieces that this show had to offer.
The only aspect of Pharrell’s collection that is rather questionable is something we have seen before in past shows – the pixelated designs and his rather digital take on the LV Damier, which we also catch a glimpse of in this Fall 2024 menswear collection. I understand that it has become a significant look for the LV house, but I personally enjoyed more the western denim and lace looks and all the beautifully crafted leather than that specific pattern. I also particularly enjoyed the take on the LV squared Damier pattern in red tones. I believe it’s a beautiful homage to workwear and specifically to the classic flannel shirt pattern.
© Vogue Runway
I’m looking forward to the future of the Louis Vuitton house, and I’m extremely excited to see what Mr. Pharrell shows us next, probably something related to the four massive trunks he brought out. He is definitely a breath of fresh air as a creative director, being his authentic self and bringing something new into the industry.
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