Wales Bonner is definitely not a new name in fashion. The young designer has been making a mark ever since she was awarded the LVMH Prize back in 2016, with her own line and her ongoing collaboration with Adidas. To understand the importance of her work, one must delve into the significant cultural references each of her collections holds. In her latest Men’s Fall-Winter 2024 “Dream Study” Show, she explores the interesting heritage of African American universities in the US such as Howard University. Bonner has spent a considerable amount of time in the United States within the last few months as part of the curating team for the exhibition “Spirit Movers” of MoMA’s Artists Choice series in New York City. Because of this, she has gotten to explore the interesting life of varsity, Greek life, and, in general, Black university academics in The United States.

© Vogue Runway

To understand this collection, one must have a bit of background information regarding Howard University. This private institution, a historically black research university in Washington, D.C., holds a ton of cultural significance in the United States. Established in 1867, it was founded with the oath to provide advanced studies for Black Americans. With notable alumni such as Kamala Harris and Chadwick Boseman, it is a renowned university that embraces the Black experience in America and is simultaneously one of the best STEM universities in the US. With this said, it ties back to Wales Bonner’s importance of African culture and well-studied concept for her collections.

© Vogue Runway

When looking into her design, the concept of well-tailored academia is very noticeable, with textures and materials usually present in  Savile Row in London and extremely well-tailored and unique shapes. The heavy twill weave, beautifully crafted embroidery, and elegant textures give you a sense of a prestigious academic heritage, with that particular aspect of preppy that is so relevant in the college experience. We also get to enjoy a few items from her collection with Adidas.

When talking about Miss Bonner, one has to, of course, mention footwear as this is what she is generally known for. Personally, I really enjoy the use of silver, bringing back that nostalgic look from the 90s, as well as the leopard print similar to her notorious Adidas shoe that sold out within seconds of its release, and now it’s selling for at least five times its original price.

© Vogue Runway

Wales Bonner is a name I think we will be hearing a lot from in 2024, as even more of her collaborations with Adidas will be released, and I believe her attire will be even more recognized outside of the UK. My  jewel in the crown is how well-studied and relevant her collections are in this century, embracing and spotlighting cultures that have a lot to put forward. I’m definitely eagerly anticipating to what she has to offer and I expect her becoming one of my favorite designers in this year’s Paris Fashion Week.